The Face of God
I think I've figured out why I love surfing so much. It's the feeling of being out of control, on the edge of destruction, only to survive.
To me, that is the face of God. It's a reminder that we are gifted with the wonder of the universe, laid before us in all its forms and we should feel blessed to be here. In that moment, we could, should, be snuffed out but we are allowed to exist to pay testament to the beauty of this world, this universe, in its finest moment.
It is only on the edge do we really appreciate what a gift life is, don't waste a second.